We picked our guests up from their hotel while the streetlights were still on and were inside the park gate as the sun came up. That is the whole trick with Nairobi National Park: go early. The animals are moving, the light is soft, and for an hour or two you have grassland, acacias and the odd giraffe to yourselves, with the city skyline sitting quietly on the horizon.
Rhino, first thing
Before half past eight we had found what most people come for. A white rhino and her calf were grazing in the long dry grass just off the track, unhurried, and let us sit with them for a while before wandering off. Nairobi is one of the most reliable places in Kenya to see rhino, and it still feels unlikely every time.
Ostrich, zebra and the hippo pool
A male ostrich crossed in front of us with the plains stretching out behind him, then a small herd of zebra grazing with cattle egrets riding on their backs and picking around their feet. Down at the hippo pool the hippos stayed mostly under water, as hippos do, while marabou storks and Egyptian geese worked the muddy edge.
Buffalo in the shade
By late morning the heat was up and the buffalo had gathered under a single acacia, a whole herd pressed into one patch of shade. That was our cue to head for the Sheldrick elephant orphanage and lunch, and the next morning we were on the road to Lake Nakuru.
Good to know
- Pickup is early for a reason. The first two hours after the gate opens are the best of the day.
- Phones are fine. Every photo here was taken on a phone from the vehicle. Bring binoculars if you want to see the detail.
- It pairs with Nakuru. Read what happened on day two at Lake Nakuru, or see the 2-Day Nairobi Wildlife & Cultural Experience if you would rather stay in the city.